Tuesday, October 2, 2012
Today was the much-anticipated 1st
Julia Child dinner. We didn’t go into class until 1pm to compensate for how
late we’d be getting out. I found myself paired with Ihsan Gurdal of Formaggio.
Because he was only preparing cheese tasting plates, I spent the beginning of
the afternoon assisting JJ on his arctic char prep. We spooned sauce into
little bowls, chopped lettuce, and assembled plates. When Ihsan finally
arrived, he led us through a demo of how he wanted each cheese and their
accompaniments displayed. Accompaniments included Italian hazelnut honey, plum
jam, and red pepper jelly. I didn’t like it as much as the cheese and wine
tasting Chef John assembled for us last month, but everything still worked
together and looked nice on the platters. It didn’t take long to finish that
work, too, so I soon found myself floating around the large kitchen and
alternating between curious observation and stepping in to help as needed. I
got to see how each dish was made, assembled, plated, and expedited. It was a
truly unbelievable experience to observe each chef in action. Once thing I
loved was that many of the chefs stepped in to help other chefs when they
needed it. At one point, two chefs were assisting the chef creating the tarte
tatin while three or four more chefs observed. Coincidentally, my favorite chef
station was the tarte tatin because Chef Jacky Robert used a red-hot branding
iron to caramelize the tops of the tarte tatin. He kept the large, round irons
on the stove for quite a while before using them. The gas was cranked up high and
we could tell that the next step would be very exciting! When it was finally
time for the dessert courses, he began branding each individual apple top,
before passing it along to another chef, who plated the caramelized apple and
pastry round and dolloped on crème fraiche. A large portion of the room became
hazy with a wonderful burnt sugar smoke. And I thought the only thing pastry
chefs had to worry about was White Lung (from long-term inhalation of flour).
By the end of the evening, we were able
to taste virtually everything that went out into the dining room, including the
massive tiger prawns and oysters on the half shell (from Island Creek Oysters).
The two shellfish were served on ice in a real wooden boat which was set up on
the demonstration table in the dining area. It was AMAZING. The prawns were so
big they could have made mock lobster rolls. My favorite savory dish was the
monkfish sautéed with roasted cherry tomatoes and olives. I scared a classmate
by doing a Google image search for monkfish while we were tasting it. At some
point, someone pointed to a large, metal stool hanging out in the kitchen and
told us it was “Julia’s stool.” Apparently it was her favorite back in the days
when she actually taught students in the program. Awestruck, we all clamored to
take pictures of ourselves while enthroned on the very famous stool.
The official menu from the night:
First
Omble-Chevalier Mousseline (Arctic Char)
by Jean-Jacques Paimblanc
Monkfish pillard Nicoise Olives with a
Cabernet Franc Sauce by Richard Vellante
Foie Gras with Oxtail Potato Cake by Stan
Frankenthaler
Second
Rabbit Ravioli by Jody Adams
Roasted Lemon Chicken with Garlic and
Parsley by Gordon Hamersley
Ginger-Orange Duck “Cassoulet” by Ming
Tsai
Pithivier with Candy Striped Beets,
Mission Figs, and Roquefort by Susan Regis
Third
Cheeses by Ihsan Gurdal
Tarte Tatin by Jacky Robert
Dacquoise and Chocolate by Jim Dodge
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